A crooked screw will tear the paper on one side and be proud of the paper on the other. And when the framing shrinks, a longer screw is more likely to pop because the angular movement is more extreme at the ends of the screw. Personally, I do not have a problem with screw pops, because, well, I am That Drywall Guy , and my screws do not pop.
I have had a couple of occasions—long ago—where I had a couple of hundred screw pops. I have since refined my anti-pop drywall method. Here's five tips:. Tighten the screw with a screwdriver or add another screw next to the one that popped.
Sometimes the popped screw may need to be removed. After re-coating with compound and sanding, the areas will all have to be primed and painted. If paint with a sheen was used something other than flat , then the entire surface may have to be painted again to hide the repair.
Since it is so uncommon to get that many pops, something unusual had to have happened. Kind of an all-of-the-above thing. The system can overcome one or two bad conditions, and still work with minimal pops, but with three or four contributing factors, the home was doomed. I think the lumber had higher than normal moisture content, the drywall had a somewhat soft core perhaps it got damp while it was stocked , the screws were set poorly, maybe they were too long, and the PVA polyvinyl acetate paint that was applied to the wall trapped the moisture.
Since first writing about this, I have gotten a lot of comments, questions, and potential perps. Eric, a drywall contractor in Michigan says this:. A giant glob of glue behind a screw will dry up, pulling the drywall closer to the stud thus pushing screws outward. When I do ceilings, I use a tiny bead of glue and many screws making sure the drywall is tight to the wood. And here's my foolproof way of doing walls: Use big globs of glue in the field to grab the drywall and give it a solid feel, but no screws in the field.
Screw off the perimeter of the sheet where all screws get taped over or trimmed. You do not need them [in the field] because you are not fighting gravity like with ceilings. Rudy Ruiz, a drywall contractor with 40 years experience, believes part of the problem is the lightweight drywall and latex adhesive.
He also believes that latex adhesive is less tolerant of moisture and temperature changes. I have not experienced any problems with the lighter weight drywall, though It does seem to have a harder core which seems to give less when setting a screw. Because the core of lightweight drywall is coarser, the paper tears more easily when setting the screw.
But it is not significantly worse. As the screw becomes larger in diameter, the gauge number increases. So, a 6 drywall screw would have a smaller diameter than a 8 drywall screw. For the actual size of the drywall screw gauge, a 6 gauge is 0. Gauge is usually expressed as the second number after the length.
The standard material for drywall screws is low carbon steel. To protect the screw from corrosion, it is sometimes coated with gray or black phosphate. This is adequate to prevent the formation of rust caused by water-based paint before they dry.
The head of a drywall screw is shaped like the bell end of a bugle. This is why it is called a bugle head. This shape helps the screw stay in place. It helps not to tear the outer paper layer of the drywall. With the bugle head, the drywall screw can easily embed itself into the drywall. This results in a recessed finish that can be filled with a filling substance then painted over to give a smooth finish. There are drywall screws that have sharp points.
With a sharp point, it would be easier to stab the screw onto the drywall paper and get it started. Sometimes, if you buy a large box of drywall screws, the weight is measured instead of the number of screws. A 2 Phillips head drill-driver bit is usually needed for most drywall screws.
While other construction screws are already using Torx square or heads and not Phillips head, most drywall screws still use the Phillips head. To resist corrosion, black drywall screws have a phosphate coating. Other types of drywall screws have a thin vinyl coating that makes them even more corrosion-resistant.
Because these have slippery shanks, they are very easy to draw in. Drywall screws are mainly used for fastening full or partial sheets of drywall to either wood or metal studs. Drywall screws are also good for repairing nail pops. Nail pops are circular bumps you will see on your walls. These come from short, wide-head nails used to nail the drywall. Because of the nail-pop problem, drywall nails have been replaced by drywall screws as the standard method of attaching drywall to studs.
You can also use drywall screws for building projects. Since drywall screws are quite brittle, they can snap instead of bend. Its heads can easily break off and leave the shift section embedded in your wood. This is why drywall screws should not be sued for heavy or moderate building tasks. You should avoid using drywall screws for outdoor projects like fences and decks. You should only use drywall screws for light building projects. Drywall screws can also be used for woodworking projects.
When working with softwood, the coarse thread of drywall screws is perfect. Drywall screws are also used by cabinet installers for installing and actually making cabinets. The drywall screw that is commonly used for cabinet installation has yellow zinc plating. This yellow zinc plating looks great with wood. It also gives an added corrosive resistance to the screw. It is not safe to use drywall screws to install an electric box in the ceiling that will support a ceiling fan.
To drive drywall screws, you will need a dedicated drywall screw gun. This is a specialty tool for hanging drywall. It is compact, light, and has a lower torque than most cordless drills. The screwdriver should be accompanied by a drywall bit.
On the ceiling edges, screws should be places about 7 or 8 inches apart. On the ceiling field, they can be spaced approximately 12 inches apart, but no more. Before diving into the drywall hanging project, measure your working area. Make sure you have enough drywall to cover everything, including extra if you have to cut some or make mistakes.
Make sure you have the following tools:. Before starting your project, check if your state or local municipality requires licensed contractors or a permit to hang the drywall.
Codes vary by location. Some places require a certain number of screws or nails or an inspection after drywall is hung and before mudding begins. Effectively hanging drywall is essential for a safe and secure project done well.
Not using enough screws or improperly hanging the drywall will lead to future cracking and tearing, resulting in unnecessary — and sometimes expensive — repairs. When placing the drywall, make sure the end of the piece sits in a joist or stud center. Start drilling in the screws — you might need help to hold the drywall in place. The screws on the ceiling drywall should be about eight to 10 inches apart. Using a drywall bit, drill the screws in place and into the drywall to mud it. Be cautious not to drill the screw through the drywall!
While measuring the walls, notate things like outlets, lights, etc. Drywall-to-wood screws feature coarse threads, unlike the light gauge steel screws that have fine threads. These denser materials can break the smaller 6 screw during installation. Use a 8 or larger for these jobs. Too few causes obvious issues, while too many means more mudding. Precision drives: Be careful how far you drive the screws if using a drill.
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